San Telmo

When I first arrived to Argentina, a rainy Saturday night after more than 24 hours of travel, I was pretty dismayed by my hostel. It's not that I'm that picky-- I simply like moderate cleanliness and, if possible, a little heat. But the neighborhood of San Telmo, where the dodgy hostel is located, is lovely. And so although I bid a gleeful farewell to my first hostel quite quickly, I didn't quite leave San Telmo. I now have a very cool apartment in the "bad" part of the neighborhood, but no matter. San Telmo is noisily, witsfully, ridiculously charming. In addition to the crumbling balconies overlooking the busy streets, there is a wealth of artisan markets, including the famed Sunday feria. On that day, the Plaza Dorrego comes to life, as chic, tango-dancing pairs waltz around and antique-sellers set up their quaint stalls. You can find anything you want, with a little patience. Evita Peron memorabilia? Check. Old typewriters? Check. Mounds of irresistible jewellery? Check, unfortunately for my wallet.



An Argentine flag, an attractive building from another era and a church-- welcome to Buenos Aires.



Take your pick and bargain hard.



Tango dancer, who picks his partner from the crowd of admirers-- beware!



The feria's regular band, but with an uncommon passion in their music playing.



Pretty yellow church whose name escapes me.